HOME SET-UP AND MAINTENANCE

by Todd Thuss CPI, ACI

Introduction

Regular maintenance prolongs the life of your home, protects your health and safety, and protects your biggest investment.  We hope this guide helps you.

This guide contains two sections. The first, home setup, is a list of maintenance you should perform upon first moving in.  The second is a maintenance plan broken down by seasons.

Download a PDF version of this guide HERE

Home Setup

1. Gutters and Grading – Make sure gutters are cleaned out, drain freely, and discharge at least 5 to 6 feet from the home. Have a gutter contractor adjust any gutter that is overflowing because of improper slope.
2. Locks – Change the locks on all the doors. Deadbolts improve security and may reduce insurance costs.
3. Smoke Detectors-  Smoke detectors come in two types: ionization and photoelectric. Ionization detectors use a small amount of radioactive material that decays over time, gradually losing effectiveness. It’s a good idea to replace them every eight years, and definitely every ten years.  Ionization detectors technically never wear out but they do accumulate dust inside the sensor chamber over time. The recommendation is to replace these every ten years as well. If in doubt about the age, remove the detector and look for a date code.  I recommend writing the date of purchase on new units with a black sharpie and adding a replacement reminder on your calendar ten years out.
   Which type to get?  Experts now know that photoelectric detectors respond quicker than ionization detectors and are recommended over the ionization types.  I recommend using all ionization detectors.  Some studies, however, say that a combination photoelectric/ionization unit provides even better protection, but this is controversial.
   Detectors that are line-powered (those with a connecting plug and run from house power) have a battery for backup when the power is out. These batteries tend to last anywhere from one to three years and will chirp when the battery is depleted.  Battery-only detectors should have their batteries replaced at least once a year. These are supposed to chirp as well, but don’t rely on the alarm to remind you. For that reason, many experts recommend replacing batteries twice a year at the time change.  It’s probably overkill.
   Smoke detectors should be installed in every bedroom and several other areas.  See HERE for installation instructions.

4. Carbon Monoxide (CO) Detectors – These are required in homes with an attached garage and/or any fuel-burning appliances (fireplace or gas logs, gas cooking appliance, etc.) These are required outside of all sleeping areas.  You can purchase combination smoke/CO detectors.    These should be replaced every seven years. If present, remove the unit and look for a date code.  When replacing them, follow the instructions for the manufacturer’s replacement interval and battery replacement interval.
5. Heating and Air-Conditioning Systems – Have these initially inspected and serviced, especially if you have a gas-fueled furnace. We recommend setting up a service contract to ensure the equipment is properly maintained. Replace all filters. The recommendation is to have gas-fueled units serviced yearly.
6. Duct Cleaning – Consider having this done shortly after moving in, and again after any major renovations that create dust. With a properly maintained air filtration system, duct cleaning is not required on a regular basis. Older homes or those with odors from pets or smoking might benefit from having the ductwork cleaned. This step does not apply to new homes.
7. Wood Burning Appliances – Have the chimney inspected and swept by a fireplace professional (or chimney sweep) before using.
8. Main Shutoffs – Find and mark the main shutoff for the heating, electrical and plumbing systems. You need to be able to shut things off quickly in an emergency, especially gas appliances. The gas shutoff for stoves/ranges require pulling out the unit or lower drawer of a cabinet to access them. These are identified in your home inspection report.
9. Septic System – If the home is on a private sewage system, a specialist should inspect the system. Septic systems need to be pumped out every 3 to 5 years. Some newer systems require annual maintenance.
10. Sump Pump – Test to make sure it will operate when needed. Consider installing a secondary pump with backup power supply for use in case of power outage. A high water level alarm should also be considered.
11. Clothes Washing Machines, Dishwashers, Refrigerators – Purchase new braided steel hoses rather than rubber hoses for connecting the supply piping. This reduces the risk of flooding due to a ruptured hose. Ensure the washing machine sits in a catch pan and consider getting a battery-operated water alert for use in the pan.
12. Clothes Dryers – Use smooth walled (not corrugated foil or plastic) metal exhaust ducts to vent dryers outdoors. Keep the runs as short and straight as possible. Clean the duct and hood if your inspection report indicated lint buildup.
13. Fire Extinguishers – Provide at least one on every floor. The fire extinguisher near the kitchen should be suitable for grease fires. Check the expiration date on any existing fire extinguisher and replace any past its use-by date.
14. Fire Escape Routes – Plan fire escape routes from the upper stories. Obtain rope ladders if necessary.
15. Upper-story windows – if your inspection report indicates, consider adding window opening restrictor latches for any window with a sill less than 24” above the floor and the window is more than 6 feet above the ground.
16. Water heaters – See the Water Heater recommendations in the Spring maintenance section for maintenance instructions and perform them.

HOME MAINTENANCE PROGRAM

Good maintenance protects your investment, enhances comfort, extends life expectancies and reduces your costs. Do as much of the maintenance work yourself as you are willing and able, and hire others to do the rest.

SPRING

1. Gutters – Check for debris and clean out if necessary.
2. Catch Basins – Ensure the storm sewer, ditch, culvert or catch basin outside the home is clear to help avoid flooding.
3. Railings – Check that railings on stairs, around openings and on decks are secure and in good condition
4. Sliding Doors and Windows – Clean tracks and make sure drain holes are open to reduce the risk of water damage in the home. Clean window sill pans to ensure they drain.
5. Garage Door Operator – Test the auto-reverse mechanism – it should reverse when it meets reasonable resistance or if the electric eye beam is broken. The door should reverse if you place a piece of 2×4 lumber under the door and attempt to close it. Closing and opening forces can be adjusted at the operator. Lubricate to ensure the operator works freely and minimize the load on the electric motor. Do a YouTube search on how to adjust an opener, or use/download the manufacturer’s user guide.
6. Garage Door Hardware – Lubricate to ensure the door moves freely.
7. Lawn Irrigation System – Turn on and inspect the system for leaks and proper operation. Adjust sprinkler heads if needed. Consult an irrigation specialist if needed.
8. Smoke & Monoxide Detectors/Alarms – Test to make sure they work. Change the batteries.
9. Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters and Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters – Test to make sure they work if there is an electrical problem. Don’t forget those at exterior walls and garages
10. Backup Generator – Service and test (unless unit automatically runs self-test)
11. Filters/Air Cleaners on Heating and Air-Conditioning Systems – Clean or replace to reduce heating costs, improve comfort and protect the equipment. Filters should be replaced every 1-3 months, depending on usage and the level of dust.  Replace when the dust buildup on the filter is sufficient to reduce the airflow through the filter.
12. Air Conditioning System – Have it serviced before cooling season begins to maximize life expectancy and reduce operating costs. Systems with a gas furnace can be serviced at this time. If you keep up with filter replacement you can usually stretch the service interval to every 3 to 4 years.  If you have a gas furnace, this should be serviced yearly.
13. Sump Pump – Test to make sure it will operate when needed, to avoid flooding.
14. Tank-Style Water Heater – Check and test the Temperature-Pressure Relief (TPR) valve and drain the sediment from the tank. This requires attaching a garden hose to the drain at the bottom.  Consult a YouTube video to explain.  Regular removal of sediment is important, especially in areas with hard water.
15. Tank-Style Water Heater – Every four years, replace the sacrificial anode. This is a metal rod that protects the inside of the tank from rust.  Anodes are available on the internet and at Home Depot or Lowes. Consult a YouTube video to guide you.  Although few people perform this task, regular replacement of the anode can keep your water heater tank like-new nearly indefinitely.
16. Tankless Water Heater – Check and test the Pressure Relief (PR) valve. Descale the heat exchanger with a vinegar flush.  This is a necessary maintenance item in most areas.  Kits are available at hardware stores, or you can hire a plumber to do it for you. If you do it yourself, YouTube videos are available online.  Also, clean the inlet screen.  Most models have a filter screen at the water inlet that need periodic cleaning. Note: tankless water heater repairs need to be performed by a factory-trained technician, not a plumber (unless they’re trained on your unit).
17. Pressure-reducing valve – If you have one, this regulates the water pressure in the home and lasts about ten years. They lose effectiveness over time and require replacement.
18. Carpets – Have professionally cleaned. They’ll last longer, look much better, and will reduce allergens in the home.
19. Lighting – Replace any bulbs that are burned out.
20. Doors – Tighten any doorknobs or latches that are loose.
21. Crawlspace and Basements – Flush all toilets and run water in all sinks and tubs. Inspect the entire crawlspace (or basement) and look for leaks around plumbing, especially plumbing below bathrooms, kitchen, and laundry areas. You may need to pull back insulation to see the subflooring.  Anything dark or wet is a cause for concern. Also look for animal feces or carcasses; consult a pest control company if animal/rodent activity is noted. I recommend wearing a protective facemask (N95) and wearing a head-mounted light when crawling through a crawlspace.
22. Decks and Balconies – Examine for rotted or deteriorated materials, particularly on stairs and at the ledger board (which supports the deck where it attaches to the home). Paint or stain any areas requiring it.
23. Exterior Plumbing – Check for leaking hose bibs. There should be no drips from the faucet when it’s on or off. The valve requires periodic repacking.  Consult a plumber or YouTube video for this.

SUMMER

1. Roofing – Perform an inspection and tune-up of roof coverings and flashings every one to three years. This helps prevent leaks and maximizes the life of the roof. Remove any deteriorated caulking around nailheads and flashing and re-caulk with a proper roofing sealant.  You may wish to hire a roofer for this task.
2. Building Exterior:

• Inspect for weather tightness at siding, trim, doors, windows, wall penetrations, etc. to prevent concealed water damage. Have any soft or damaged materials repaired and repainted. Wood or fiberboard siding that meets a roof or the ground tends to decay quicker. You may need to view these areas from the roof.
• Repair any old or damaged caulk at windows, doors, trim, and siding joints.
• Paint and Stain – Check and improve as needed to prevent rot in exterior wood. Pay attention to wood close to the ground as well as door and window frames. Wood trim, soffit, and fascia materials should be painted at least once every three years and inspected yearly for flaking paint. Remove any old, flaking paint and apply an oil-based primer prior to painting with a top-quality exterior paint.
• Brick siding – Look for new or changing cracks. Small cracks can be fixed with a mortar repair caulk but larger ones or ones that are worsening should be evaluated by a foundation contractor or structural engineer.

3. Gutters – Clean the exterior of black streaks using an exterior bleach and water solution. I have found that Zinsser’s JoMax House Cleaner/Mildew remover works particularly well. This is mixed with a small amount of bleach.  This mixture lasts about three hours and does a fantastic job removing black streaks and stains from algae/mildew on gutters, sheds, doors, and other places.  Rinse the surfaces after cleaning them.
4. Driveways and walkways – Pressure wash. Keeping up with pressure washing reduces the time and effort it takes to keep them clean.
5. Windows – Remove screens and wash windows on a cloudy day or when the sun is not directly hitting them.
6. Garage Door Operator – Test the auto-reverse mechanism – it should reverse when it meets reasonable resistance or if the “photo-eye” beam is broken (some say test monthly). The door should reverse if you place a piece of 2×4 lumber under the door and attempt to close it. Closing and opening forces can be adjusted at the operator. Lubricate to ensure the operator works freely and minimize the load on the electric motor. Do a YouTube search on how to adjust an opener, or use/download the manufacturer’s user guide.
7. Attic – Check for evidence of pests, mold and roof leaks to prevent infestations and damage. Be sure to check the eaves (the area near the roof edge), valleys, and around dormers and chimneys; these are common areas for roof leaks. Consider inspecting the attic during heavy rain.
8. Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters and Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters – Test to make sure they work if there is an electrical problem (some say test monthly).
9. Chimneys for Fireplaces and other Wood-Burning Appliances – Have inspected and swept as necessary to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
10. Filters/Air Cleaners on Heating and Air-Conditioning Systems – Clean or replace to reduce heating costs, improve comfort and protect the equipment. Filters should be replaced every 1-3 months, depending on usage and the level of dust.  Replace when the dust buildup on the filter is sufficient to reduce the airflow through the filter.
11. Exterior Steps, Stairs, Handrails – Check for missing or cracked mortar. This can be repaired with mortar repair caulk. Check for loose handrails.

FALL

1. Gutters – Check for debris and clean out if necessary.
2. Lawn Irrigation System – Turn off and drain the system (if possible) to prevent pipe damage due to freezing.
3. Exterior Vents – Ensure vent flaps close properly to reduce heat loss and prevent pest entry.
4. Smoke & Monoxide Detectors/Alarms – Test to make sure they work. Change the batteries.
5. Filters/Air Cleaners on Heating and Air-Conditioning Systems – Clean or replace to reduce heating costs, improve comfort and protect the equipment. Filters should be replaced every 1-3 months, depending on usage and the level of dust.  Replace when the dust buildup on the filter is sufficient to reduce the airflow through the filter.
6. Gas Logs Fireplace – Remove ceramic logs and vacuum out flame holes and associated parts. If you see black soot anywhere, this indicates the unit is not burning cleanly and may be producing excess carbon monoxide. This is especially important if you have a ventless unit (one without a chimney).
7. Outdoor Hose Bibbs (Faucets) – Unless they are the frost-free type, cover to prevent freezing, damage to pipes and flooding. Wrap any water pipes in unheated locations with heat tape and insulation.
8. Sump Pump – Test to make sure it will operate when needed, to avoid flooding.
9. Trees and Shrubs – Trim back at least 3 feet from air-conditioning to allow the air-conditioning to work properly.
10. Trees and Shrubs – Trim back from walls and roofs to prevent damage caused by branches rubbing against the building and to reduce the risk of pests getting into the home.
11. Vines – Trim away from wood building components. Do not allow vines to grow in gutters or on roof.
12. Lawn Equipment – Change oil in mowers, sharpen blades, and winterize all gas-powered equipment. Perform any required yearly maintenance required (e.g. change air filter, spark plug, etc.)
13. Ensure any firewood (or wood of any kind, including decorative chips other than bark) is at least 20 feet away from the home’s foundation. Wood next to a home is a welcome mat for termites.
14. Familiarize responsible family members with the location of the main gas valve and other appliance gas valves.
15. Check caulking and weatherstripping around windows and doors. Correct any gaps.

WINTER

1. Bathtub and Shower Enclosures – Check caulking and grout to prevent concealed water damage.
2. Drains – Clean sink, bathtub, and shower drains.
3. Clothes Dryer Duct – Check for link buildup in the ductwork and hood and clean if necessary. You may need help if your dryer vent hood is on the roof.
4. Fire Extinguishers – Check gauges for proper pressure. Replace any past their expiration date
5. Window Screens – Remove, clean, and put into storage
6. Toilets – Ensure they are solidly attached to the floor and tighten bolts on any that are loose
7. Sinks – Check all of them for leaks
8. Bathroom Exhaust Fan – Vacuum grilles to ensure good air flow. Considering removing the grille/cover and cleaning the fan blades.
9. Filters/Air Cleaners on Heating and Air-Conditioning Systems – Clean or replace to reduce heating costs, improve comfort and protect the equipment. Filters should be replaced every 1-3 months, depending on usage and the level of dust.  Replace when the dust buildup on the filter is sufficient to reduce the airflow through the filter.
10. Range Hood Filters – Clean to maintain efficiency, reduce energy costs and minimize the risk of grease fires.
11. Microwave Oven Filter – Permanently-mounted (under-cabinet) models often have a charcoal air filter that needs periodic replacement. This helps neutralize cooking odors and loses effectiveness over time.
12. Dishwasher – Clean the drain filter (may need to be done more frequently). Consult the user’s manual or use a YouTube video for how.
13. Refrigerator – Clean the cooling fins and fan. There are special brushes available for this. Buildup of debris on cooling fins reduces the unit’s efficiency and forces it to run longer in order to cool properly.  Consult a YouTube video to show you how to perform this task.  Some refrigerators require removal of a rear panel in order to access the cooling fins.
14. Refrigerator, Washing Machine, Icemaker, and Dishwasher – check water hoses for damage or leakage.
15. Hydromassage bathtubs (whirlpool tubs) – Remove the access cover (if possible), fill and run the tub, and look for leaks around the tub’s plumbing and pump